I used the recommended Radio Shack 274-321a RCA plugs. Be careful cleaning the flux off these RCAs, Acetone melts the plastic they are molded from.
Strip the solid color wire back 1/2 inch.
Strip the stripped wire back 3/4 inch.
Put the outer RCA housing on the wire before you solder the wires to
the interconnect.
The stripped wire is the ground. Fold both tabs over the exposed copper.
The solid color wire is the center conductor. Feed the solid color wire from the inside of the top hole, loop it around and make a mechanical connection. Then feed the excess wire into the hole in the center of the RCA plug.
This is the trick: the center conductor gets two solder joints. The
first is at the hole on the tab for the center conductor that was used
for the mechanical connection. The second is at the hole from the swage
on the center conductor. Fill the hole of the swage (crimp) with solder.
This shorts any problems with the mechanical connection. You don't have
to fill the entire cavity of the center hole with solder, just the open
hole.
If you have a loop in the wire like the one below, crush the loop with
your needle nose pliers before you solder.
Before you solder, it should look like this:
I have not cleaned the hairs from the Q-Tips (tm) I used for cleaning
off yet, but the solder joints should look something like what is shown
below. Shiny solder joints and filling the swage hole is important. So
is flowing solder from the swage hole to the metal tab. I tried to make
sure 100% of the exposed copper got covered with a little bit of solder,
but don't use too much solder. Be careful, if you use too much heat, the
RCA plug will melt.
The finished product:
These sound good with no break in. I'll have to burn them in for a while and see how they really sound. Someone was saying Teflon (tm) takes 100 hours to break in!
M55988
Plenum 4 Pair (100 ohm input impedance)
24 AWG
UTP FEP Teflon
Jacket: ** White ThermoPlen *
.186 4.7 24 36 UL, c(UL)
CMP, MPP
